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For the band that goes under the LED bar,
cut a 1" long piece of the 1-1/2" tube.

Use a file and bevel both edges.

Then you need to cut an opening in the band.

When you slide it on the saber,

the opening should be very
close to the width of the LED bar.
You may have to file a small amount
for it to fit just right.

It's best to wait until you make the
LED bar before glueing this piece,
in case you need alter the size of
the opening.


To make the LED bar, cut a piece of the
1/4" x 1/2"wood stock to 1-1/2" long.

Then take the 3/32" flat
stock and cut 1/8" wide strips.

You'll need to cut two strips for the length
on the LED bar, and eight small pieces
about 3/8" long

Measure and mark on the LED bar the
location for each strip to glue on
that will form the LED slots

Glue (use wood glue) one of the long pieces
on one edge of the bar. Don't worry
if it hangs over the edge; this will be
sanded smooth later.

Then glue all the small pieces for the
LED slots; remember to lay the two end
pieces flat, and the other six get
glued on upright. Doing this will keep
the LED slots straight and even.

Mark 1/4" on the LED bar,

and cut off the excess.

Glue the other long strip in place.

Sand all sides of the LED bar so all the
strips you glued on top are flush.

Once it's painted, you won't be able
to tell where you glued the pieces.


You'll need to put a radius on the bottom
of the LED bar to match the curve of
the saber body.

Wrap a piece of sandpaper around the saber
body and sand the LED bar until the curve
matches the shape of the saber.

Now check to see how the it fits
in the opening you made in the band.
You want it to fit with no gap between
the bar and the band.

Once you're satisfied how it all fits,
you can glue the band in place with
super glue. Make sure the opening for the LED
bar is at the 6 o'clock position.

Leave 3/4" between the band and the rear edge
of the shroud.

The LED bar itself, gets glued
on after painting.


Now the end cap, is really very simple. I had created
some round stock out of resin (by mistake, really).
I used a piece of that for the base of the
end cap. If you can find a dowel or closet pole
that fits inside the main tube, that'll work fine,
too. Start with a piece about 1-1/2" long. It doesn't
need to be that long, but it's easier to work with.

Cut a 1/4" long piece of the 1-1/2" diameter tube.

Glue this ring on the end so it's a little higher
than the face of your dowel/round stock.

Then fill the space with body filler,

and sand smooth.

Set the end cap aside. That will be glued
on after painting.

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