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For the grips, I looked for 1/8" x 1/2" flat
stock. But I couldn't find 1/2" width. So
used 1/4" wide and glued them edge to edge,
to get 1/2".

Cut the 1/4" wide stock into 5-3/4" lengths.
You'll need 16 of these pieces.

Glue them in pairs so you end
up with eight 1/2" wide
pieces that are 5-3/4" long.

Then cut the 3/16" stock into eight 5-3/4"
pieces, and glue them upright onto the
1/2" wide pieces to form the "T" shape.

The Plastic Weld glue is great
stuff. It actually melts the pieces together
and will not come apart.
You only have to brush the glue onto the
joint and it will seep in and bond
the two pieces nicely.

This is what you should end up with:

Then you have to put a radius on the bottom
of each grip. This can be a little tedious.
I used the drum sander tip on my Dremel to
rough out the shape.

Then wrap sandpaper around a piece of the
1-1/2" tube, and get the final shape by
sanding by hand.

Then just round off the ends slightly
for each grip and you're done.

The grips were a lot of work. You might
as well spend $20.00 and get four feet
of grip material from Yodashouse. I think
the rubber grips would look better anyway.


Now, for the painting. I used Duplicolor
automotive spray paint. Use whatever shade of
silver you like. I used a GM silver that looked
pretty close to satin aluminum.

Use a coat hanger inserted into the end
of the tube to hold it while painting.

First prime everything. Then you'll be
able to see any scratches or imperfections
that you can fill with modeling
putty before the final paint.

Spray the main body, the "cone" piece for the
emitter, and the end cap silver.

And paint the grips and LED bar flat black.

Once these are dry, you can do the final assembly.
I used epoxy to attach the LED bar, the
emitter piece, and the end cap; and double sided
tape for the grips.

Leave 1/8" gap between the end cap and the main
body of the saber.

When you attach the grips, start the first one
exactly in line with the LED bar.

Then continue with the rest, spacing them evenly,
there's about 1/8" between grips.

You'll need a knurled red button. I had an
extra red button from a Larbel saber.

When you're all done, you should end
up with something like this:

Click here:

for more pics of my completed saber

go to Page 1