Plo Koon Lightsaber Tutorial
Materials you will need:
2- 1-1/2" PVC pipes (Sink Tube)
1- 3/4" x 1/2" PVC flush bushing Click for Pic
1- 3/4" x 3/4" PVC female coupler Click for Pic
1- 1-1/2" diameter dowel (closet pole)
8- 12" long strips flat styrene stock 1/8" x 1/4"
4- 12" long strips flat styrene stock 1/8" x 3/16"
1- 6" length of basswood stock 3/8" x 1/2"
1- 6" strip of basswood stock 3/32" x 1"
Plastic Weld
Super glue
Wood glue
Autobody filler
Sandable spray primer
Silver spray paint
Flat black spray paint
The first step is to make the shroud.
I had to use the larger ends
of each of the 1-1/2" tubes (unless you can get a hold
of 1-1/2" ID tube).
Using this template, mark each piece for the angle
cuts for the shroud. Remember that the angle is
for the front of the shroud is different than for the back of the shroud.
It's easier if you cut the template into two pieces,
on the line shown; then tape the template pieces to the end
of each tube with the straight edge facing out, as shown.
After you cut the angles, the two halves should fit
together like this, and be 2-7/8" in length along the top edge
Set these aside for now.
Next, cut the main tube to length.
Measure and cut one of the 1-1/2" PVC tubes to 10" length.
Insert the 3/4 x 3/4 coupler into one end of the main tube
(ribs facing into the tube)and glue in place.
The ribs on the adapter keep it centered in the tube.
Fill the gap around the adapter with body filler.
Once the body filler has hardened, sand it smooth.
Take the 3/4 x 1/2 flush bushing and file a bevel about
1/2" down from the top. I used body filler to make
it thicker.
You want to get the "cone" shape even all
the way around, so the gap where it will meet the
other part of the "emitter" will be minimal.
Once you're satisfied how these two pieces fit, set them
aside for now. Do not glue them together yet.
Glue the two halves of the shroud on, leaving 3/8" of
the main tube out of the front of the shroud.
Fill the gap between the two shroud pieces with
body filler, and sand smooth.
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